Of all of the different wearable items that could be embroidered, jackets would appear to function as easiest. When most of think of jackets in terms of embroidery, large areas thriller jacket for full backside and left chest designs come to mind. What many of us often forget are the little curveballs apparel makers are adding into their designs such as package pleats and seams down the trunk. Fashion forward styles could have things like raglan sleeves which can throw off design placement since they lack the guideline of a shoulder seam.

One sure way to begin with a jacket that’s fit for embroidery is to focus on dealing with styles that give the fewest headaches. Thus, do some research on the most recent trends. In addition, focus on a machine that is in top notch condition, with refreshing needles and bobbins. Here are the other basic elements to take into account in your search for trouble-free jacket embroidery.

Choosing a hoop

The best option in hoops for jackets is the double-substantial hoop. This hoop is taller compared to the average hoop so offers more holding power. You can wrap your hoop with light floral tape, medical gauze, twill tape or bias tape to avoid hoop marks and help give a snug fit. Tissue document, backing or waxed paper could also be used. Hoop these materials on top of the jacket, after that cut a screen for the embroidery. A thin layer of foam beneath the tape can also help. But avoid masking tape as it tends to be sticky and leaves a residue on jacket and hoop. Whenever choosing your hoops, remember that oval hoops hold better all the way around than perform square hoops with oval corners. The “square oval” retains better in the corners than on the sides, major and bottom.


The size and type of needle will depend on the fabric of the coat. Leather jackets call for an 80/12 sharp. (Wedge shaped “leather” needles tend to do more harm than good.) Utilize this same sharpened needle on poplin along with other cotton-type jackets. Work with a 70/10 or 80/12 lighting ballpoint on nylon windbreakers and a 75/11 great ballpoint on satins and oxford nylons to avoid runs in the fabric. Major wool jackets, canvas and denim jackets require a stronger razor-sharp needle. Corduroy stitches nicely with either ballpoint or sharpened. Understand that ballpoint needles nudge the textile out of the way so that you can position the stitch, while sharps reduce through the fabric. An excellent rule of thumb is to use the same dimensions needle to embroider as you would to sew the seams of the coat in assembly.

As for thread, polyester is an excellent choice for embroidery on jackets that will be exposed to the elements and coastal climates. Make sure you include washing and dry washing instructions together with your finished product. Consider choosing a large-eye needle whenever using metallic along with other heavy specialty threads

Placing the design

Hold a straight-edge across the jacket back from side seam to side seam at the bottom of the sleeves. Tag a horizontal straight line, then check this with a measurement from underneath of the jacket to exactly the same line. Jackets are not always sewn together straight. Measure the straight line and divide in two to get the center of the coat. Place a vertical series through the horizontal line at this stage. The intersection of the two lines would be the center. If you are rotating the look to sew upside-down or sideways, take this into consideration when measuring and later on when hooping. Employ tailor’s chalk, disappearing ink pens or soap to mark your garments. Stay away from pins. Masking tape is available in skinny strips at graphic and art work stores. You can easily remove and results in no marks. Wider masking tape, though, can leave residue.

Centering the look eight inches down from the back of the collar is a good place to start, and really should use most jackets. Small sizes can do better at six inches; large ones may end up at 10 inches. The top of the design should fall about 2 � inches straight down from the collar of the jacket. But remember that this will change if the jacket has a hood. Then it will be necessary to place the design below the hood.

The ultimate way to determine the guts point of the design is to have someone try the jacket on, or invest in a mannequin. Pin an outline of the design or a sew-out to the back, making sure to include lettering and graphics to determine size and placement. Left or right chest patterns should be centered 3 to 4 inches from the edge of the jacket and six to eight down from where the collar and the jacket physique intersect. When embroidering on jackets with snaps or buttons, utilize the second snap or press button as a guide.